How to Tile a Backsplash [ For Beginners]

A tile backsplash can elevate any kitchen or bathroom space and really transform the look and feel of your room. It is a great way to add a personal design touch by using tile that complements the cabinetry. For those that haven’t tiled before, it can seem like an intimidating project. I assure that even beginners can take on this project and save a good bit of money.

There are different ways we can install a backsplash tile. Tile also comes in a wide range of materials that allows us to have a range of creativity we can use. We will cover all of these in this post where I share a step-by-step process in how to tile a backsplash for beginners. In this situation I tiled my newly installed dry bar.

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Types of Installation Materials

You can tile a backsplash using mortar or musselbound directly onto drywall. Mortar requires using a powder and water to mix. You can also find some pre-mixed mortar if you don’t need a lot or feel intimidated about mixing.

In this situation I used Musselbound. Musselbound is incredibly user and beginner friendly. It is great for backsplashes. It is like a double sided sheet. One side goes directly onto the drywall. Has you install the tile on the other side you pull the paper back. It is really that simple!

Note: If you are installing tile in a room with heavy moisture, like a bathroom or possible mudroom, you will need to install a waterproof barrier. The recommendation is either a cement board or Schluter system. If you are looking for tip on how to install tile in a bathroom, please review my post on ‘How to tile a bathroom floor.’

How to Tile a Backsplash

Tiling Supplies

• Tile
• Tile Sealer and Enhancer (My tile was marble, you need to seal if using a natural stone)
• Spacer and Tile Leveling System
• Musselbound
• Utility Knife
• Wet Saw
• Safety Glasses
• Level
• Grout (I used unsanded because I used marble tile)
• Grout Float
• Sponges
• Caulk
• Caulk Gun

Step-by-Step Guide to Tile a Backsplash

1. Taking your musselbound, roll it out from the left wall to the right wall. Musselbound does state that it needs to be installed vertically, not horizontally. You can peel the back side that will go against the dry wall. Using a utility knife to score the end of the musselbound.

1. Now we will start to add the tile, determine the side you want to begin with based on the tile pattern you have chosen. You can use a level to make sure that is it level with both the outside wall and the base of your counter. Peel the musselbound back. Take your spacer and place underneath tile and push against the musselbound at your desired spot.
2. Next you’ll take your second piece of tile and repeat the process with your spacer. Has two tiles are placed next to each other you will push the tile level underneath. This will help make sure every tile is level throughout the process. You will repeat this process for the wall.

Cutting Tile Down

For tile that needs to be cut down, you will use your we saw to cut the tile down to fit your space. I like to use a dry erase marker to mark my tile. A wet saw requires water in the basin. A wet saw actually grinds the tile and can’t actually cut you. If you are renting from a Home Depot, they will show you how to set up your saw. If you are buying, just be sure to read the instructions on how to set up.

Note: You cannot install tile while it is wet. You will need to thoroughly allow it to dry before installing it on the musselbound.

Removing the Tile Levels

If you chose to use the tile levels, you will need to remove then once everything is set. If you are using Musselbound, I would wait to remove for 24 hours. Once you are ready, remove the yellow level. Take a rubber mallet and gently hit the spacer vertically, It will break off from the original piece. Repeat until only your tile and open grout spaces are the only thing visible.

Sealing Tile

If you are using a natural stone, you will need to seal the tile. The tile I installed on our dry bar was marble. If you don’t seal, you risk the tile becoming damaged due to the natural stone. I used 511 Seal and Enhance sealer. Taking a clean sponge or cloth, lightly dampen with the sealer. Cover the tile completely and let it sit. After 3-5 minutes, you will take a dry, clean cloth and wipe the tile. Pro tip: Work in small batches so the sealer does not sit on the tile too long.

Sealer does suggest waiting a few hours after wiping it clean before grouting. I chose to wait until the following day to grout my tile.

Grout the Tile

Tools you will need to grout the tile include, a float and your grout. You can use either a pre-mixed or mix it yourself. Mixing tile yourself allows for more grout color options. I chose to mix it myself because I wanted a light gray grout and it did not come in a pre-mixed version. I have used both options and either works depending on your desired look.

Once the grout is pre-mixed, you will take your float and gently push it into the space between the tiles. You want to make sure that the grout is flush with the tile. As you grout, try to remove has much from the actual tile has you move through the space.

Once you have worked in a small space on the tile, you will take a wet sponge (make sure it is not heavily damped) and gently wipe the grout from the tile. You really want to make sure that this is very lightly wiped. If you wipe to hard, you risk losing some of your grout in the joints. You will continue to repeat the process for the entire backsplash. The trick to really getting your tile clean is keeping your sponge and water clean. This means you will likely need to make multiple trips to getting more clean water.

After about 30 minutes of the grout drying, you will want to come back through again and wipe the tile again with a clean, wet sponge. You can even repeat this a few house later if you still feel their is a light grout haze on the tile.

Note: The tile backsplash I used was marble in this situation. You cannot use a sanded grout on natural stone. It will scratch and damage the tile. You will need to use unsanded grout if tiling with a natural stone.

Caulking the Tile

Once your tile is complete with grout, you are almost done! Caulking is the finishing touch to most projects. Caulk the outsides of your edges against the wall countertop and if you have upper cabinets.

To caulk, you will cut the tip of your caulk, then install in a caulk gun. Pull the trigger of the caulk gun. Once the caulk is at the top, go against your seam at an angle to fill any gaps. Wipe clean using a baby wipe or your finger. That’s it you are done!

Tips for Installing Tile Backsplash

Working Around Outlets

If you are working around outlets you will need to add spacers behind to make the outlet flush with the tile. To do this, you will loosen the outlet screws, place your spacers behind the outlet at your desired depth. You will place spacers on the top and bottom of the outlet. Screw back in your outlet screws (you may need to get longer outlet screws. These can be purchased at any home improvement store). Then re-install your outlet cover.

Layout Tile First

If you want to plan for any cuts you might need to make, you can layout your tile before hand. This can ensure that you have enough tile and make all the necessary cuts.

Weight of Tile

Consider the weight of your tile. Marble tile is pretty heavy and I had a few trouble spots with the Musselbound. If you are using a standard tile, musselbound is no problem. I do think if I went back I would use mortar just based off the type of tile I was using.

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